My stall warning light activates on the ground and in the air during accelerated stalls but lately, it will not go off during slow flight to stall scenario. Any suggestions?
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The tech support people at Piper agreed with my conclusions. There's no upgrade kit available from Piper. I suggest you ask at one of the salvage yards; the two that support Piper Flyer are www.wentworthaircraft.com
Robert; Further research turned up to Piper Service Bulletins that may be applicable.
I've attached them.
File Attachment:File Name: SB1200TomahawkHardLanding.pdf
File Size: 1,132 KB
File Attachment:File Name: SB_0676TomahawkNoseGearStop.pdf
File Size: 139 KB
File Attachment:File Name: SL_0931TomahawkNoseGearForkKit.pdf
File Size: 117 KB
Referring to the parts manual, it appears that the upgrade to the 6.00 x 6 tires requires more than a simple tire and tube change.
The main LG axles have to changed to p/n 61886-02, a spacer (p/n 61887-02) installed inboard of the wheel on the axle, a bushing-spacer (p/n 7789-10) installed outboard of the wheel on the axle.and an inflation pressure placard (p/n 41398-11) must be also be installed on each main. But the biggest hill to climb seems to be the requirement to install different brakes. The new brake part numbers are 551 738 on the left side (Cleveland p/n 30-53A) and 551 742 (Cleveland p/n 30-53A) on the right side. You notice that the Cleveland part number is the same for both sides; might be easier to find two Cleveland 30-53A brakes than it is to order via the Piper part numbers.
I did a cursory check to see if there's a Piper kit for this upgrade but wasn't able to find one.
I'm going to check with Piper to see if my research is correct. I will update this post if I find out different.
It's my experience that nose gear shimmy is not related to the shimmy dampner.
My first suggestion is to balance the wheel/ tire assembly. If your mechanic doesn't have a balancing tool, you can try taking the tire wheel assembly to a motorcycle shop if there's on nearby. If you're not near someone who can balance the assembly, you can do it the "bush" mechanic way, which is to completely degrease both wheel bearings and the races. Then mount the tire/wheel on the airplane. Since there's no drag on the wheel/bearing the heavy spot on the assembly will end up at the bottom. Install balance weights (get them at the auto parts store) until the assembly does not stop in the same place every time.
If you find it hard to balance, make sure that the red dot on the tire is aligned with the filler valve stem or silver spot on the tube.
If the balance is good, then I would look very closely at the nose gear torque links. Look closely for cracks. Check for slop in the torque links by installing the tow bar, and watching the lower, middle and upper connections of the torque links as a helper slowly moves the tow bar back and forth. There should be zero "slop" or play in the three connections. If there's wear, the torque links can be rebuilt by installing new bolts and bushings. Make sure the proper bolts are installed.
I have attached a page out of the Tomahawk service manual pointing out the need to inspect for cracks in the nose gear housing.
If you can't find anything else, I would take a look there.
File Attachment:File Name: TomahawkNoseStrut.pdf
File Size: 613 KB
File Attachment:File Name: TomahawkNoseStrut.pdf
File Size: 613 KB
I am having continued problems with nose wheel shimmy on my 79’ Tomahawk. New tire installed, new wheel bearings installed and new shear pin ordered.
If anyone would like to comment on experience and a solution to this problems I’d be grateful.
What do I need (paperwork) to replace my 5" wheels and tires on 1978 PA38 to 6" wheels and tires?
No, not really, I had a Horizon electric tach in my Comanche before I went full engine monitor. It worked perfectly and fit in the same hole as the mechanical tach. It appears the company may have retired since the product is no longer listed on Aircraft Spruce and Specialty. But there is a used one on eBay: type Horizon P-1000 into the eBay search window. Asking $250.
There are a number of approved replacements. A couple include the Electronics International has its R-1 and the J.P. Instruments Slim Line tach.
If you haven't yet decided, you can get a TruTrak II from Aircraft Spruce. This is a portable battery powered unit that is not connected to any aircraft systems. Velcro it to the dash, point it at the prop (it can adjust for 2,3,4, and 5 bladed props) and get a true reading of your engine rpm.
my airplane is a 1961 PA-24 250. I am having occasional issue with the tachometer, it oscillates at times and isn't accurate. I removed, cleaned, and lubed the cable.
I am considering replacing the original with an electric. What are your thoughts? I want the new instrument to fit in the instrument panel where the old one is. Is this a difficult upgrade?
Wow, From busy as can be to simple, and chocked full of information and capabilities. Great job!
She is all done! Flight tested, and the end of a six month journey filled with setbacks, progress, more setbacks, and "Top Ramen again for dinner?"
When you have spots where the paint has flaked off, the best procedure is to smooth the edges using a Scotchbrite pad, or the proper sandpaper.
The best type of sandpaper is aluminum oxide sand paper since it's compatible with aluminum. Using other types can cause corrosion.
After smoothing the edges you should prime the bare metal. After you have applied a thin coat of primer and let it dry per the instructions. Then you can put on the finish coat.
Unfortunately there are many different tints of airplane white.
The original white paint color for your PA 28-140 is called Daytona White. Unless your airplane has been painted since it left the factory.
You can order both a good primer and a good white enamel from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty ( www.aircraftspruce.com ). www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/aircraftcoatings.php .
However, if your spot is small it's often more effective and quicker to go to the local hobby store or hardware store and buy a pint of white in this case, enamel paint. If you're going to hand paint, I recommend going to a hobby or art store to buy a good quality brush. When hand painting a good brush makes a lot of difference.
You should still fair in the edges, and still apply primer first, but if you experiment a little with a brush and get paint that's very close to the right color, it will look pretty good.
The other option is to take an inspection cover off the bottom of the wing, and take it to an auto paint store for a match. Some stores will mix up a pint. But it will be much more expensive than the small pint of enamel at the hardware store.
Let me know how it comes out.