Congrats on your new(ish) airplane.
Unless it's been modified, the oil pressure gauge is what's called a direct reading gauge. That means a tiny copper tube is connected to a fitting (with a restrictor so if there's a leak all the oil won't be pumped out immediately) on the engine. This tube is connected to the oil pressure gauge.
Sometimes, especially when out side air temperatures get colder, the OP indication is slow to come up due to "thick" oil or because the capillary tube is gummed up.
This can be over come by carefully disconnecting the tube on the back of the gauge and, using air pressure blowing into the tube to push the thick oil or crud in the tube out at the engine end.
If you're really enterprising, you can disconnect the capillary tube at the engine end to prevent the "crud" from being blown back into the engine.
Reconnect both ends of the tube; the line should self bleed to remove air.
If you have an electronic engine monitor, the cause is most often corrosion on one of the wire terminals on the wiring, a broken wire or a bad sender unit.
Let me know what you discover.
Working on modifying the battery box
Fortunately the Apache has big panels to remove on both sides of the nose to give decent access to to systems.
It was dark by the time we finished and test ran the engines.
In case you haven't been keeping track it takes a lot of work to get an old plane "up to speed" after it has "declined"!
Since the left engine had done a "slow crank" the last time I flew it I immediately wanted to get that taken care of. We had the engines cranking and starting very well so I want to "weed out" any more issues. First on the agenda for today's work was to check the battery trickle charger. It was working but only rated at .25 amps. We replaced it with one that charged at 1.2 amps and also gave indications of the charging status. That was a quick and easy fix but we weren't done yet. We then started on the battery box STC mod by Bogerts. We pulled the battery out and got the battery box out. We then found both box vents and drain clogged. So they were unclogged and repaired. The box was modified and then the battery reinstalled. The new trickle charger was tested and seemed to work fine. My mechanic then found a very tiny hydraulic leak coming from a line he thinks is for the flaps. He fixed that leak as well. At this point we still have the copper cables to install but when I tested the engines they cranked right up so for now it appears we have improved the Apache a little bit more! We got started about 2:30 and didn't get done until about 7:30 so it was getting dark by the time we pushed the plane back into the hangar after test running the engines.
Selling my spare power pack p/n: 105476. Prestolite model. Used in many retractables. Was functionally serviced and check for satisfactory operation before I got it. Kept as a spare for my plane but things have changed and it is no longer needed. It easy to find, and even harder at this price. 1500. Firm plus shipping. Local pickup is possible also. Located at KANE.
Got to fly the Apache a bit today, the weather was too nice to waste! My older daughter came with me to get her "familiarization ride" as we are planning on flying to visit family in Louisville, KY later this month. So just a quick, short hop but it let her see how everything works and what it feels like.
We got to spend time talking on the drive out and back and I'm not sure but maybe she enjoyed that more than the flying! But it was a good day and she was willing to pose with the plane:)
So now everyone in the family has had a least one ride although my wife is getting to be pretty comfortable with the Apache as she has ridden in it more.
Left engine was a little slow to crank today although it started right up as it typically does. We will check my trickle charger as I suspect it isn't doing enough. Also we may push up the installation of the Bogert copper cable for the starters.
Thanks for the update.
I'm sure you remember that I'm up at Paso--KPRB.
Looking forward to a ride.
Hi Steve -
Apologies for the delay in replying. I finally got my Aztec into shape for my multiengine checkride, and then after that it spent a month at Diamond Aire catching up on deferred maintenance. It's home, has a working heater (finally!) and I've got this month before it goes in for annual. I would be happy to go for a spin - will try sending you a message with my contact info.
Just recently bought a 1973 Cherokee 140 with 160HP upgraded cylinders. I am a Rusty pilot and getting back into seat after 23 years.
Had aircraft ferried from Falmouth, MA to New Haven, CT about 1 month ago. The owner, also a Jet Blue Pilot and Instructor and myself flew A/C. I thought the Oil Pressure was fine (showing). Subsequently flew Cherokee with another instructor at New Haven about 3 times since ferry. Yesterday, after taxi and run-up, it does not show oil pressure. I have my A&P license but that, like pilot license , has not been used. Need to get into things on this issue.
I've pasted the reply from Piper
It is a diode with 3 outputs. The diode is located behind the instrument panel (center).
Ours turned about to be a leaking pressure valve meaning it wasn't staying in the up position. You can insert your own jokes here.....
PA28-140/160 FOR SALE! 60K!
AFTT: 4554, SMOH: 628
PA28-140 WITH (160 CONVERSION)
FRESH ANNUAL 10/2021
TAILBEACON ADS-B OUT
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That was ultimately my conclusion as well. However, that does violate the drawing standard of having an undocumented junction.
I'm no avionics wizard, but it looks like a diode with three connected wires going in one side and one wire coming out the other.
I'm going to try to verify this.
When I get a good answer I'll let you know.
That's good news. I wouldn't stop with only checking two cylinders. I would check all four.
Glad we got to the bottom of that.
If you are flying a PA32R-300, I believe that I may have an answer.
First, do you only experience a warning light? or is the light accompanied by the horn?
STEVE ELLS wrote: Does your engine stumble when you start it up on a cold morning. Does it take a minute or two before it "smooths out?" If so, that's an indication of sticking valves.
File Attachment:File Name: SB388CWobbleTest_2021-10-03.pdf
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The water idea doesn't make sense--wouldn't water in the fuel affect all cylinders? The answer is yes.
I would pull the #4 valve cover and check to make sure that there's no damage in the rocker arms, and push rod.
It sounds like one of the valves (probably the exhaust) is sticking. I have attached Lycoming Service bulletin 388C--it contains a procedure to check valve to guide clearances.
The Lycoming tool is very expensive.
I bought a tool from Aircraft Spruce ( www.aircraftspruce.com ) that does the job. www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/valvewobble.php .
I've attached the service bulletin.
Let me know what you find
We’ll you hit the nail on the head. Mechanic went to taxi the airplane for an oil change and sure enough the #2 wasn’t firing at idle. He checked the valves and found the exhaust completely stuck-rock solid. He then checked #4 and same thing. Both have been reamed and replaced.