https://fsims.faa.gov/Wdocs/AFS-1%20Memorandums/COVID-19/COVID-19.htm?fbclid=IwAR18Tir3wHf8Ttws9XMS4tkepTVJPXGH1Am85ilHxhjQaiqC5m_robDU9E8&fbclid=IwAR18Tir3wHf8Ttws9XMS4tkepTVJPXGH1Am85ilHxhjQaiqC5m_robDU9E8COVID-19 Relief For Certificate Holders: Policy Deviations, Exemptions, and Rule Changes
COVID-19 Temporary Policy Deviation Memos
Certificate Holder’s Requesting Relief (COVID-19) – AQP
Deviation to FAA Order 8900.1 for 14 CFR Part 145 Repair Stations
Flight Standards Designee Oversight and Recurrent Training Requirements
Operational Control Part 121 Air Carriers
Part 141 Training Interruptions Related to COVID-19 and Applicable Deviations to Order 8900.1
Special Guidance for part 147 AMTS Regarding Training Interruptions
COVID-19 14 CFR Part 65
COVID-19 Deviation for 14 CFR Part 142 Training Center Certificate Holders
Thanks Francis, I'm going to stick with strobes since that's what's in the plane now. If I can't find a grimes or whelen that will work, I'll switch to LEds
That's great news. Glad it was a simple fix. Thanks for getting back to me.
Ok, what I found was that the square bracket that holds the Rubber Stopper on the Nose Link (that is concave to seat to the strut tube) was loose, so that it rotated and did not seat in the concave to tube manner. Also complicating this was the fact that the strut and rubber had a large amount of grease, oil and dirt from the engine change out so that the nose wheel could easily move and in turn cause the uncoordinated flight, as the nose would slide from left to right almost unimpeded with the slightest gust.
Tightened the Rubber Bumper Bracket, cleaned it and the tube and it was test flown, and all good.
Does anyone have a picture of the ammeter shunt on a JPI? My a EDM-900 goes from negative to more negative when I switch on the alternator.
Thanks for posting your report. It's the first feed back report we've gotten. I also installed an electronic magneto (Electro Air) and I love it. The starting performance is much better and I believe it idles better. I'm sold on electronic ignition.
You could go to a mountaineering store and see if it has clips and sliders. Or a local auto upholstery shop. The upholstery shop would be able to "tune up" your net and would probably have hardware that would work.
If you do go to a salvage yard, please check Wentworth (wentworthaircraft.com) and Preferred Airparts ( www.preferredairparts.com ) first. The support Piper Flyer.
Please let me know what you find
I have taken a hard look at the service manual and have called and talked to a Piper mechanic who has been in business for a long time. Your nose gear moves when the rudder pedals are pressed.
The only things we could come up revolve around the engine installation. Such as, do any of the engine control cable housings bare on the steering rods?? Is there any looseness in the steering bellcrank which might let the nose gear move without input?
In our experience the installation of a Power Flow exhaust shouldn't cause anything like you describe.
Since you didn't have this before, my initial focus would be on the details of the engine installation and all the details that encompass that.
Since your airplane was down for 6 months, have you done a thorough inspection of all the control surfaces,(rudder) and the control cables.
One mechanic said that a flap might be streamlined at cruise but might droop at lower speeds which would cause a large drag penalty on one side of the airplane.
What other work was done on the airplane during the 6 month down period?? Check the work that was done.
Sorry I (we) can't point at the cause. What you're describing is very mysterious.
Please let me know what you find.
Unfortunately, we aren't able to provide this kind of guidance; we just don't have the personnel to track all the shops. We're working to gathering recommendations from our readers but we're not there yet.
I have put a link in this reply to an article written about Pre Buy inspections.
A pre buy inspection can be thorough, or it can be very brief. To my knowledge there's no documented guidelines on what must be included in a pre buy.
If you're serious about the airplane, I recommend that you get a complete annual by a mechanic you hire, not the mechanic the owner has been using. Once the annual is complete and you have a list of the squawks, that gives you grounds for negotiations.
Please let me know if any specific questions come up during the inspection.
In the process of purchase a 1964 Piper Cherokee 235. Looking for a pre-buy inspection referral for the Austin, TX area.
My mechanic said it does not lock at full extension.
Next we'll look at the complete assembly cables etc....
Thanks for the input....
Some airplane lock the nose gear in the fore and aft orientation when the nose strut is at full extension. Are you sure that yours does not do that? I think that if the nose fairing was your problem, you would have had the problem throughout the flight. I would make a close inspection of the control cables, pulleys, and cable tensions as well as the rudder attach points.
Much appreciated thank you!
I'm missing both of the strap ends of my 65 Cherokee 180 cargo straps and the adjustor ends are very rusty.
Any suggestions other than the obvious, buy one from the salvage folks? does anyone know the length of the strap end?
The adjustment end is 24"
1977 PA28 181, 1600 SMOH
I fly the Archer approx 150 hrs per year and use the plane to fly from Vegas (VGT) to my properties in Page, AZ (PGA) and to the Florida panhandle (Milton, 2R4). I fly high level cruise 9-11K, 3 and 4 hour legs to Fla. My aim with the Surefly mag was to save some fuel in high level cruise and get easier starts. I've found the O 360 A4M difficult at best to start when hot. Also, the SIM4P can essentially be installed for life--so you can subtract future mag and install costs of the impulse mag if you plan to keep the plane.
The plane was due for an annual and 500 hr mag change out. Decided to replace the impulse mag with the SIM4P, and replace the fixed mag with new due to previous issued Champion SB (loss of power) on existing mags. Replaced 500 hr plugs with new massives and replace wire set with new--could not find in logs when the wires were new--likely when eng. was rebuilt in 2000. Surefly recommends new plugs and wire set to get full benefit of the electronic mag.
SIM4P and CHT install: 25 hours (ouch!)
1. According to the STC, the SIM must be directly connected to the battery, NOT the bus. This requires the shop to run a wire through the plane to the battery, i.e. remove panels and feed it through existing wire bundles.
2. The STC requires CHT monitoring capability. My Archer only has an EGT gauge. Shop installed a single cylinder CHT gauge.
1. Engine starts are much easier, hot or cold. (Starts like a car)
2. With some leaning on the ground, the EGT runs much hotter above 1200 F on the ground with less RPM, reducing plug carbon loading--which is a constant issue with my A4M.
3. Takeoff and climb no noticeable change
4. Cruise--after leaning to peak EGT per Lycoming, the EGT peaks hotter before any roughness. Which tells me better fuel economy. I estimate a fuel savings of .5 to 1 gallon per hour so far.
Bottom line: Due to the steep install costs, consider installing the SIM4P for the long term. Note: this was the shop's first install of a Surefly mag.
Paul Haney, ATP
The Cherokee has been down for 6 months getting an engine overhaul. We also added a Powerflow Exhaust. So Finally got engine installed, ran the engine and then it's time to do the 2.5 hour Lycoming flight engine run.
I did a very thorough preflight and all is good. Start the engine and taxi, do the run up and off we go. Up to 6,000' and 2.5 hours all is great. Time to land and check everything out.
Descend to the airport and set up in the downwind at 80kts and all of a sudden the airplane is so out of coordination it's scary. I look at the ball and its left so I step on the ball and the ball flops to the right and then step on it and it's left. I could not keep the plane coordinated no matter what. Fortunately I get the Cherokee on the runway and it taxi's fine to the hangar. It was a bit of a handful to say the least to get it on the ground.
So what would cause this uncoordinated flight? Prior to the Engine overhaul all was fine with the plane. Could the new Powerflow Exhaust Pipe be creating turbulence causing the nose pant to move at lower speed? (At higher speed the Pant was not moving, I would guess the higher speed helped in this instance) What keeps the nose pant centered in flight? (steering dampener?? the fin on the back of the Pant??) The nose wheel and rudder move together correctly on the ground. It was only happening at slow speed as I was cruising at 105kts for 2.5 hours and all coordinated.
Any ideas on what the issue is????
I have a tail rotating beacon, if that's ever of interest.
Thank you Steve!