What do I need (paperwork) to replace my 5" wheels and tires on 1978 PA38 to 6" wheels and tires?
No, not really, I had a Horizon electric tach in my Comanche before I went full engine monitor. It worked perfectly and fit in the same hole as the mechanical tach. It appears the company may have retired since the product is no longer listed on Aircraft Spruce and Specialty. But there is a used one on eBay: type Horizon P-1000 into the eBay search window. Asking $250.
There are a number of approved replacements. A couple include the Electronics International has its R-1 and the J.P. Instruments Slim Line tach.
If you haven't yet decided, you can get a TruTrak II from Aircraft Spruce. This is a portable battery powered unit that is not connected to any aircraft systems. Velcro it to the dash, point it at the prop (it can adjust for 2,3,4, and 5 bladed props) and get a true reading of your engine rpm.
my airplane is a 1961 PA-24 250. I am having occasional issue with the tachometer, it oscillates at times and isn't accurate. I removed, cleaned, and lubed the cable.
I am considering replacing the original with an electric. What are your thoughts? I want the new instrument to fit in the instrument panel where the old one is. Is this a difficult upgrade?
Wow, From busy as can be to simple, and chocked full of information and capabilities. Great job!
She is all done! Flight tested, and the end of a six month journey filled with setbacks, progress, more setbacks, and "Top Ramen again for dinner?"
When you have spots where the paint has flaked off, the best procedure is to smooth the edges using a Scotchbrite pad, or the proper sandpaper.
The best type of sandpaper is aluminum oxide sand paper since it's compatible with aluminum. Using other types can cause corrosion.
After smoothing the edges you should prime the bare metal. After you have applied a thin coat of primer and let it dry per the instructions. Then you can put on the finish coat.
Unfortunately there are many different tints of airplane white.
The original white paint color for your PA 28-140 is called Daytona White. Unless your airplane has been painted since it left the factory.
You can order both a good primer and a good white enamel from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty ( www.aircraftspruce.com ). www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/aircraftcoatings.php .
However, if your spot is small it's often more effective and quicker to go to the local hobby store or hardware store and buy a pint of white in this case, enamel paint. If you're going to hand paint, I recommend going to a hobby or art store to buy a good quality brush. When hand painting a good brush makes a lot of difference.
You should still fair in the edges, and still apply primer first, but if you experiment a little with a brush and get paint that's very close to the right color, it will look pretty good.
The other option is to take an inspection cover off the bottom of the wing, and take it to an auto paint store for a match. Some stores will mix up a pint. But it will be much more expensive than the small pint of enamel at the hardware store.
Let me know how it comes out.
There are a couple; Brown Aircraft Supply in Florida.
However, on the recommendation of another mechanic, I just bought a door seal from www.knots2u.com . It has a separate division called "Aircraft Door Seals" www.aircraftdoorseals.com .
I haven't installed them yet but I like the looks.
There is also an inflatable door seal known as the Bob Fields door seal is now sold by www.aeroaccessories.com . It's a little more complicated but in the past it's had a good reputation.
I reached out to a petroleum engine and airplane owner I know asking how long it avgas good for? Does it have a finite usable life.
Here's what he said:
"What I recall is that the spec requires two year life... but practically, there's no limit. The avgas in Glacier Girl sat in the airplane for 50 years on the Greenland ice cap, and was still usable. Cold is good, though, to retard chemical reactions that degrade fuels... but it was exposed to oxygen.
The degradation process begins with the weathering off of the light components, butane and isopentane, which are added to achieve the 7 pound vapor pressure requirement. Once those are gone, vapor pressure will be about half that... making winter starts difficult.
Then, upon exposure to oxygen in the air, the anti-oxidant additive will eventually be used up... once the antioxidant is gone, theoretically oxygen in the air can start forming gums and varnish with the remaining components. BUT, the avgas spec requires very stable components. Practically speaking, the most likely thing to oxidize is the blue dye... so the avgas may turn clear. The aviation alklyate and aromatics will hang around a long time... some will oxidize a little perhaps... but generally not enough to be an operational problem.
I've seen communication from some avgas blenders advising that avgas that exceeds the two-year life spec can be requalified by sending a sample for testing. I would not expect any such sample to ever have failed the test, particularly is stored in an air tight container."
So the official answer is a usable life of 2 years.
Not sure if this is a reoccurring question, but what is the best door seal for replacing the OEM seals on a PA 32. The wind noise due to leaks is annoying, we are running out of tissues to put in the door during cruise, LoL. Thanks for any assistance.
Was wondering what is the recommended touch-up paint (white) for use on aluminum (PA-28-140)? I have a few spots on the wing where the paint has flaked off, and would like to touch-up these spots.
Thanks Steve, It sounds like Im going to get my A&P involved with this. Looks like there is no quick fix. Thanks again!
Thanks Russell - I'll do that
Ask your question on the Airworthy Comanche forum on Delphi Forums. Kristin Winter who runs it has authored many articles on the Comanche on this site, and there are many very knowledgeable Comanche owners from around the globe on there. Someone will have a recommendation for you.
Russell - Perth, Western Australia